39.147km: From Irkutsk to Vladivostok my travel excelerate again

Vladivostok 39.147km

Rain continues 4th day as I'm writing this words. Sitting in hostel compensate all long  days of riding and my body can finally get stronger. 

Since Ufa where got engine rebuild I did 8687km in 25 days. I'm not great in mathematics but this is fast for me and I like it - so this is my around 350km a day. Of course couple of longer 2-3 days stops were necessary. 

After last mayor engine break down I priorities my days as fallow:

1. motorbike condition, checks and repairs

2. my self condition - food, safe sleep, motivation, keep in touch with close ones 

3. diary, photography and video files storage

3. kilometers progress 

4. seeing places and people

Nasty electrical problem 

After having this schedule I had more peace in mind to follow more km.  Every Moto travel sooner or latter will realize how is this all important. From Ural to Irkutsk journey was kind of the smooth until one morning I had slept in bush and battery died, the beauty of the place was wiped by struggle of 4 hours pushing back my motorbike. I tried my system with pull start but this time this wasn't working. I just need to get to asphalt road to get some help. The problem was terrain as I went of road. Actually not far from main road but very hilly and muddy track. Finally got to the road.  Usually Russians are friendly and helpfull but no one would stop and help me. It took me some time to get to road workers and ask them for help. and I got push start and pack my luggage as motorbike would idle for 15minutes. 

I bought new gel battery in Krasnoyarsk for around 30e and is good till now. 

last moment before motor say no 

Irkutsk

In Sidi Ifni in Morocco I numbered last 195 pages of my diary backwards - in that way the last page will be page 0. Coming back to Europe I had to decide what is my next stage of my round-the-world journey I knew I like to see South America and Siberia the most. On page 193 I made variant South America and on page 194 variant Europa-Baykal 

my xerocopy paper home made diary page 193-194

And as I was closer to Baykal - Irkutsk,  my excitement rose and I felt super. I knew that I modified my 194 page plan several times and my greedy nature like to go Vladivostok and than one of americas. Irkutsk was still important to achieve and to think what next. 

After arrival I got hostel in city center and first thing was important I had my washing done - no much clothes.

I entered Irkutsk on my page 99

Marije

She is tall, smart and pretty and speaks languages - thats all to start with. I meet her at hostel as I was  talking to Tobias - Swiss Kayaker going north through the rivers of Russia. Her Name is Marije. 

3 of us went for "diner" to the town - we all enjoyed "drinks" and conversation as it was late we searched for karaoke bar and we wound one and some more attractions - we finally navigate home.As I was new to this type of tourism next day we got second helmet. We rode on slightly overload zebra to that famous lake - baykal and much more latter. As 48 h finish my dream ends too, I only wish see her before end of my diary book again. Irkutsk is special for me.

Horse

Years back I watched some Moto travel video on you tube and most remembered moment was man on horse somewhere in Mongolian steps chasing his motorcycle. From Irkutsk to Chita was much like steps and from distance I seen this man going over field. I take a chance and take of my tarmac rode and follow him for around 2 km. My long awaiting day dream have to end as I filmed him chasing me on my moto. There is strong deep connection to this image - and I can not explain why - but this was special. I was moved when watched footage later. 

Vladivostok 

This was more than I could dream of. ahh I was tired of rush I got bad cold next days,  - I was - I'm happy and I mean that. I learned this.

P.S

I decided go back to Europe and find out - What is next turn
and  If I can continue to my south america on Zebra. will arrive in Moscow with moto on 5 dec
I need new tyres, chain etc

Ukraine - Moldovia - Entering Russia - Engine Problem 30450km

Piervomayski - Russia 30450km 

After leaving Poland I head for Kiev in Ukraine - Border was easy - all people let me pass them to get faster at the border - they seemingly like polish motorbikes. I made something like 400km this day and first night was sleeping in the forest - not too cold - 15 April. Lot of mosquitos but seemingly harmless for me. I was happy - I was thinking of Ukraine long time and have some romantic ideas about it.

Kiev  - at the evening of the second day I made capitol  - got hostel - another biker was there already heading to Mongolia  - so my zebra didn't feel lonely. Being very tired after long day ride I went for shower and than go and see Maidan Niezaleznosti. In some reasons I felt overwhelmed of this place, mostly because in 2014 demonstration took 100 freedom fighters life away. I walked in silence of this huge square - it was almost empty  - some lights and some tourist - I can not explain what I felt but it was strong, sad and admiring those freedom people spirit.

From Kiev I went down to Vinnitsja for one night I have changed Oil - I was carrying with me at petrol station - people there were very friendly. Than head for Moldovia just to see Kishyniov. On the way I stopped for few nimbuses and left with the light on and Could not restart engine. I started using luggage strap - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JWvThJfgL7Q 

over night stay in Moldova

Transnistria 

 I road to Kishiniov in Moldavia and than to Transnistria. this is what you call non recognized country they have own borders and insurance you need to buy - I assume they have own army but  you can see Russian flags there. But historically this was part of Romania but in 40'ies of last century this was given to Russian and Ukrainian people who established Socialist Repoublic of Moldova and latter in 90's  Transnistria proclaimed independence what lead to war. People there look Russians and speak Russians.

Odessa - Ukraine 

I back to Ukraine to Odessa.  It was like good wave of my travel. At the entry - Big Full Moon over,  this was beautiful - magical moment. city was big but I found 5 euro hostel - mostly locals looking for the job in the city and only few foreigners. Very next day my battery died completely so I spent few days in the city looking for solution. Andrey and his wife Katia took me for Battery searching tour and we also had nice evening another night. Finally I got battery and Victor - motor biker from Odessa  point me to the workshop were I can I get help and charge my battery. 

ahh Odessa and full "tune the Moon"

On the day I suppose to go Romiana - Bulgaria - Turcja - Gruzja I changed my plan once again and decide to see more central Ukriane, I went to Mikolaive, Meltipol and stopped for my leg problem in Dnepropetrovsk after 3 days resting I moved and come to Russian border 

Entering Russia 

I bay-passed Kharkiv just to get border before night. had a coffee and cake before crossing. This is my normal strategy before unknown borders to have some clean mind. My visa was business type and I have some worries regarding it - I made up idea what I will say but nobody was asking. Ukrainian side was fast and I stocked on Russian side for 3-4 hours there, there was  custom officers shift change and all were very slow. Finally I made it when was completely dark. I set my tent 5km from the border.  At night tractor came to the field but reverse seeing my face hanging out of the tent. 

first night in Russia

Engine Failure 

In the first 4 days from dnepropetrovsk I made over 2000km which was stressing my self and motorbike - on the 6 aprill evening my engine stopped and I knew this was related to oil leakage, For time being I set practice of toping oil 2 times a day.  Engine sized - I pushed motorbike down the hill just to get to closest petrol station for more oil. It was 1/3 under the level and I knew this is source of engine malfunction. At the same time Anvar - young motorcyclist stopped, my zebra started without much noise and power loss and we went to his parents house just to repair oil leakage. His mother feed me well and I meet his father too. He escort me back to the main road when I found hotel for this night. 

 

Next day after 100km motorbike lost his power and I stopped in the village where I am now waiting for transportation to Ufa for Tomorrow. 

Andrey - He explained all local folklore to me 

New Engine and Documents in Poland

After rinding with no insurance and no technical visit certificate I was coming closer to Europe and planing to go east I need to have some sound documents. In Austria it was not possible to get it easy -You need change registration to get technical test like MOT certificate. I decided come over  Poland to get this done. 500km in Czech Republic I made in one day - In poland snow starts in central region so I stopped for one night. Second day I made Olsztyn my older brother was waiting 30km towards me to welcome me first.

Next day arriving I starting getting re-registration for new polish plates and this was waiting total of 5 weeks in the mean time I got visit all my friends and family. I went to Kalingrad to learn some Russian and it went well after 5 days I could speak some basic as i only learn previously from the book. I got my 3 months Russian visa too. To get this visa you need to go to agent - to get business visa. Standard visa is for 30 days only. Visa with medical insurance was around 250euro for 3 months.

One of important thing on the list was getting spare engine to be replaced. I got another - same model - unregistered Yamaha XT for lilt price of 500euro. In one day got it replaced and tested - Engine
was stronger than old one and no bad noises

ll papers and visas came and I was ready - my family - brothers, sister, mom and dad - equipped  me with new jacket and trousers - googles and super strong knife. So I started my East bound Part. I Head for Warsaw and my plan was to get Kiev in next couple of days.

Way Up to Europe - End of Stage 1 - stop in Poland

Poland 23.968km of my travel - Technical Stop

 Visas+Re-registration+Insurance etc

Abidjan to Mauritania

From Abidjan to Europe is around 5-6K km. My plan was to go Mali - Senegal - Mauritania - Morocco and than take ferry to Europe and start moving eastbound to Italia, Turkey etc. My Starter was causing problems and seemingly second spare relay was close to his death. I still have to get my rear break to fix it. My friend Slawek - was on the way to Gambia and we decided I will meet him there. He had spares for my motorbike as well. Once again I stoped in Bamako This time I striped down starter and fit new carbon brushes. 

Way to get to starter out is from this side

In Bamako once again I have to get Mauritania Visa - this time was around 130 euro - twice much when I was coming down last year. I also have to wait 2-3days as it was public holidays. Waiting I striped rear break once again clean all parts with normal clean tap water and that was It! The breake worked as new. it must be small dust and sand in the cylinder so it would pump the fluid. 

Way to Senegal was nice and border was much easy from this side - I rode over 400 km every day to make my friend on time. 

road from Bamako to Senegal 

Slawek

We meet at Gambia Border and rode all the way to Dakar.  We have 1 day stop there. Slawek got motorbike license but no much riding - he jump on to big moto - straight away. We both rode to Maurytania border and bad crossing Rosso we made in 3 hours with only small arguments. Ufff....

Puting Camel into small car is not always easy

We Passed Nouakchott and next day morning - engine seized - not to good - We managed to get mini bus and paid around 60 euro for it to get back to Nouakchott. Slawek got plane in 5 days from Marrakech - Morocco so he need go by bus (2000km hi hi), I stayed and found mechanic who kind of repair my moto - please see my other detailed post about all motorbike problems in Western africa and how i solved them. 

after 5 days of stop I finally moved forward towards Mauritania Border. I have only electrical problem in the desert.  I had to sleep in the police check point and repair motorbike in the morning - Mauritania was problem-free crossing and same day I made Dahkla 

Moroccan King 

Red Flags from border were placed in each town of Western Sahara. As Morocco fought Algeria in 80's over this territory. Saharian people got own identity and always willing to have own country. With a help of moroccan army western sahara was annexed and it is now under their power. Some people will still talk about their saharian identity and would not call it Morocco. On the other side Government invest a a lot of money to this deserted area and put cities and civilization. They Have program of sending original marocans to south, co they would make majority of Moroccans there soon. So the true of history is on their side now however on the maps is always marked as Western sahara 

I rode to Dahkla same day as a King's arrival - I would think this is all for my self, hi, hi...The streets were partly blocked and I was zigzaking over the city just to find something to eat. I had some tasty chicken sandwich - Yes Morocco food is tasty - at least compare to black Africa. I parked moto and went to the crowd just to see the king... people were happy and in some reasons not many were using cameras - I did. 

Awaiting for the King

I probably seen king in the passing car and that was it. How good is to be a King. 

Moroccan Mountain 

On the way to Tanger - where ferry to Europe is going - I was going through the big beautiful muntain - The problems occurred  in the top. Evening was nice and I did some 250km this. I pitched tent just after sun gone down, Mountain and sky were red from bleeding sun, Air smell of honey and pine tree, was dark when I got all my tent ready and slept nicely. Cold wake me up after some lazy 2 hours I decided to got up. sun was already there I eat some dried caffe and drink water - I was ready. Route was beautiful 

At 2100m over the see level cold and snow and rain starts to fall down, I put my all clothes and after an hour all was soaked wet, I stop for hot cafe but could not stop shaking from the cold, this was around mid day. I was continue riding till the evening. on the way I stopped in the small town to get some clothes I bought all new trousers, socks, traniners, jumper and panties, and I continue with the wet on me as 2 jackets I had on me was wet too, so no point of getting them changed. I Passed Marakesh and got some cheap local fish food, and than late evening I almost frozen stopped and pitched the tent in dried river bank, I could not stop shaking from the cold until I got completely undressed and put all new dry clothes I had. I usually not make drama but I though I was overcooled I actually was! - rain was continue and stopped in the morning - I slept till morning.

 Atlas Mountains - rain and snow and cold

Ferry to Europe and Austrian Tatra Drive till Graz 

Ferry cost me 260e for berth bed and Motorcycle and was sailing 3 night over Mediterranean see, this was equivalent of 2200km so 7-10 riding of min cost of 400e and tiredness. No much chain and no Tyres left as well no insurance and MOT test. So I was happy I found this ferry. I share berth room (I don't know how to say it in english) with 3 others Moroccan - and after this time without much language I could understand who are they and where they are going. I have made new friends mostly austrian, So I could spent sometimes talking in English and learning Austrian German. Ferry Stops in Barcelona and next day in Genova - the port where Christopher Columbus was leaving for America - wow!

Leaving Africa I was taking big memories souvenir 

Genova 

One of them were people from Desert Dream - when my Moto died in Mauritania I seen their big fast passing Overlanding Tatra in Nouakchott. I Thought it would good if I asked them where can I fix my moto. Than I met Gunther and Gerhart in Garage Sahara they were welding their Nissan front beam. My engine was temporally fixed there but I still need sprockets and chain and Tyres. Rest of them Daniele, Guido and Peter I meet on this Ferry too. https://www.facebook.com/Desert-Dream-157526797600749/?fref=ts

 Desert dream - they take me my poor Yamaha to  their Village in Austria and help finding new parts for moto - I will Remember Big Tatra and their crew Long 

On the ferry They offered me drive to Austria and help to find parts - I was overwhelmed by their "no business" attitude, We put Yamaha in to the back of big 6x6 drive Tatra and we head for Graz. we made in one day wow! In Gerhard Garage we did all parts changed we visit City several times to get all we need for Yamaha, Gerhard Parent are hard working Farmers - They produce all sorts of fruits there, this was Great stop and I will hoping I can see them once again, 

Thank You!!!

Poland - technical Stop and preparation - 

Last Stop Kaliningrad 

end of the stage 1 of my Around the World travel 

From Graz I made 500km cold pass to Ostrava in Chech republic, my insurance was finish in Senegal and technical test for motorbike finish last september. in Ostrava my brother Wojciech send me insurance over the internet so I could almost legal ride moto in Poland. I made around 250km and heavy snow (25 Feb 2016) stopped me at Piotrkow Trybunalski, I found cheep but still expensive hotel for around 30e  - next day I made cold or very cold 300km and my second brother Janusz -Krzysztof and his wife Bernadetta welcome me 20km before Olsztyn my born place. Me and they were Happy I made it!, we all new this is not the end of the travel. 

central Poland in snow

Welcome in Poland 

My Family 

After some days I managed to get new plate and temporary registration document as this is standard procedure here. Waiting for document I went for 5 days in to Kalingrad where I practice my self learned russian. I meet good hearted and interesting people there: Tatyana and Larisa Tourists from Russia and Sasha from the Hostel - Crazy Dog. Thank you for all.

Spare Parts - West Africa

My Strategy for breakdown (below list of people will help you in West Africa)
Have minimum critical spare parts - list below - if you don't like to have it time for delivery is 2 weeks - 2 mounths time. if you calculate min 10e a day for waiting (tent plus food) this will become fortune.  Distance to the shope can between 1km to 3000km depends where you are. In Africa in Dakar - Bamako and Abidjan or Yamoussoukro - You have CFEA MOTORS - Japaniess car and motorcycle dealers - usually they have 2 models of 125cc and some spare for them, but no big motorcycle spare parts!


Critical Spare part List (yamaha xt600e)
If you can please take with you (this is what I'm carrying)

Front and rear tube
Tube valve and tool for extracting it
Spark plug
Spark plug cable
HT coil (ignition coil)
Rectifier diode
Generator - alternator winding
CDI ignition module (computer)
Spare fusses
Clutch cable
Throttle cable
Starter  carbon brushes or repair kit
2-3 front/rear spokes

Tools to make all small repair only useful for your type of motorbike

Please be careful with local Mechanics - judge them by their talking and how worksop - if any - looks like - don't agree to the first time price never!



Most of repair and parts I have with me but sometimes you need someone help here is list of my recommendation - those people I used either for parts or help:


Mauritania - Nouakchott  - name Tijani tel 0022246000389 - Garage Sahara around 400m diagonally south west from Camping Sahara ask in the Camping they know him

Senegal - Dakar - Name - Madu tel 00221338683830 or 00221774506667 - Madu Bikes:  Dakar - Yoff - Route de l'aeroport - coordinates from his business card N14'45.300; W 17'28.339

Mali Bamako - Name ''Marocain" tel 0022376481777 - Local big market in the City Center - he would speak french so call for exact location - about 2 km from Yamaha dealer but I can not direct you there

Tijani - Mauritania - Nouakchott he rebuild my top engine 

Mali Bamako -  ''Marocain" I got 5 of 8 new
clutch disc form Him 

Good Luck!
Pawel

Carnet de Passage, visas and Insurance - Strategy for Bad Borders in West Africa

This contain information from end of 2015 and begin 2016 and covers - Morrocco, Maurtuanin, Senegal - Gambia - Guinea - Mali - Ivory Coast and back
prices are for Motorcycle Yamaha XT600 2002 year


Borders crossing

Duans - Customs - Carnet de Passage - Pasavant 

Carnet de Passage - I didn't buy Carnet - all this countries will accept temporary import document such as ''pasavant" or similar name for the same thing. this is always to deal with "DUANS'' custom service and each border, it is not recommended to use any mediators-transiters as they will take more money of you and same speed of dealing with the border documents

This is what I learned:

1) Prices are not set - they have some official document but it wouldn't be possible or difficult to find how much you need to pay - usually, you will gain experience after one or two bad crossings. You can always make price down when you say you only need transit - I have overstayed in maurtaina and senegal and nobody asked my about it

2)Time is your weapon - take time when crossing borders - NO RUSH

3) Try Early Morning to cross before 12.00 it is not guaranteed but you will have more energy and humor to deal with Official Corrupted Criminals at borders

4) don't listen un-uniformed people - no uniform no talk

5) always talk politely and with humble attitude (I argued at Gambia border once and I was refused enter - I did enter second time latter)

6) If you not agree with paying ask them what is this for

7) Say ''I didn't pay last time'' - it works - but you need to have some expirence or cross some border few time as I did. This not for Pasavant but for extra charges they love to apply for their service,

8) Borders are closed for the night

9) most head of Duans are like "king in the castle" you will go to special room and this is like visiting Pope in Rome

Prices :
Morocco: free no money for pasavant

Mauritania: officially was equivalent of 10e they take 65e - first time, waiting time 22h at the border - second time I paid (from senegal side) 15 e for 5 days pasavant - 3 hours second time (mostly senegal side)

Senegal: - it is all depends.  I Paid different money(several crossing)  from 7e to around 22 e for Pasavant - they will only issue 10 day. Don't worry to much for overstaying - you maybe lucky as I was my motorbike was there 6 months when I crashed and went for operation and at gambia border nobody ask me for showing pasaavant - the other option is to extend in Duans office  for example head of Duans are in Dakar on the place d'impedance dakar

Gambia: - 10 days pasavant around 7e
Guinea: (Conakry) 15e for 30days pasavant
Mali: - no pasavant (from guinea side)
Ivory Coast:  45e for 30 days - this was jus my tactical mistake I could paid less! ahh



Visas 
I am polish passport just now so pleas check if this information will match your visa criteria 

Visas you usually can get visas in neighboring country. Strategy is to check in your country if this is possible before you going travel. If not don't worry make plan, just to reduce disappointment on th way there. All my visas I bought on the way. Usually Consulate and Ambassad are in Capital cities, So when you are in for example Dakar or Bamako Try get as many visas as possible.
Be careful for entry date and valid date this is sometimes confusing even for border police and this is not the same meaning.
You need passport type photographs - I made my self on tripod before I go travel and cheep print in the supermarket Foto shop.  Take 20-30 copies as this will be handy. you usually need one max two per visa application
Waiting time is depends in West africa max 5 days so make plan ahead

Prices and where I got visas:

Morrocco  No Visa - max stay 90 days - for polish passport holders

Mauritania - first time price was around 60e and I got it from Rabat - Morrocco same day service - second time on the way back I got it in Mali - Bamako 120 euro - one entry 30 days visa same day saervice

Senegal No Visa now - it was 60e first time and got it at Rosso Border

Gambia - No visa for European Union Passport Holder- how ever first time Border police try get some money of me and I argued about it - second time I got stamp visitor entry 7 day valid - free

Guinea Conakry - from ambassad in Dakar - 3 days waiting  - 60 euro - 1 entry - 30 days.

Ivory Cast - from ambassad in Dakar it cost around 45e 5 days waiting

Mali - from ambassad in Dakar cost 90 days - 2 entry - 3days waiting



Insurance 

Morocco - European insurance with Green Card - first time i didn't have green card - second on the way back I didn't have insurance at all

Mauritania - separate insurance cost around 30e first time and  second time I didn't have any insurance

All the rest countries using Brown Card type Insurance and you can get this in Senegal. Mine cost 30e for 90 days for all countries I visited


I hope this was helpfull for you

Mali - Ivory Coast - Abidjan as a Turning Point

Mali

I have reached Bamako (14388km of my travel) on the 15 January 2015 - border was pretty much easy - Malian they didn't bother about custom's documents - Police on the Guinean side were slightly dodgy (like criminals) for all non tourist and they tried get some money out of them.

Border Mali - Guinea - Malian side 

I moved happily to Bamako as it was just few hours ride - I made city,  stopped for some snacks and water, and than I lost in the big city (Dakar traffic was much worse). I tried find Sleeping Camel Camping as it was recommended from Lithuanian couple I meet before. As you only navigate by sun and compass and some scans of maps on your laptop sometimes is a difficult. Finally I have made place for this night. I meet big overlanding truck - commercial tour operator  the one I meet in Guinea. 

Next day I went for parts search in Yamaha Dealer in Bamako. Delivery time was minimum  1 month waiting.  Me and Daniel - malian yamaha dealer  went on motorbike market with all second hand motorbikes there My main concern was to get new clutch disk. I got 5 new and 3 old for the 60 euro! I fit those parts same day. After day or two I rode south east to the Ivory coast border - I slept in the bush and next afternoon I crossed border.

Ivory coast 

First impression was not too bad. I was heading towards Yamoussoukro Where I was planing to see famous Basilic - copy of the Vatican. Road was good not new but good with minor holes - few Gendarmerie Stops, much more less crashes than in Guinea

Burn Petrol Tank Cistern - Ivory - Coast

I reached Yamoussoukro after 2 days stop in Ferkesedougu. Starter Relay was causing problems - sticky coil would turn starter forever. I changed relay and problem disappear. In Capital Yamoussoukro - I slept in nice and clean "Hotel du Centr" good price around 10e. I had great big dinner for around 4.5e too. Same evening I visit Yamaha shop and asked for prices for my break cylinder. Next morning I got delivery time - 2 mouths, I would not want so long so decided go rear break less till I find better solution. I visit Basil and with small price total of few euro I got English Speaking guide. He was very good and funny, we spend around an Hour, He also explain political back ground of Ivory Coast. 

Abidjan 15783 km of my travel 
I reached Gulf of Guinea (Grand Bassam and Abidjan) and this was one of the greatest moment of my Round the World Tour. This was more than I originally like to discover - originally I was planing get to Dakar and than transport motorbike overseas. Maybe thanks to my accident and than come back for that travel. Going that direction I was able to see much of beautiful nature of the west Africa. Climate and Forest changed radically around 300km before Abidjan - was much more humid and hot and forest changed from subtropical to tropical rain forest. Wow! I was wet of humid first time in my life. I was happy. I spend couple of days there just to have little celebration of all of this. 

Grand Bassam Beach - the feeling of great achievement - and few days of "Holidays"

I visit Ghana and Burkina Faso - They were only kin to get Transit Visa If I would have another country visa in passport, they were ways to obtaining such as thing but I was quite content to finish my West African Voyage here. I made decision same day that I would come back by Road to Europe and continue East bound. Next day I moved back north to Mali.  please see my next move in my blog. 

Restaurant in Capital - chief cook

 maybe 50 years old still operate in Ivory Coast
- same one's are used in Mauritania and Senegal 

Grand Bassam old Colonial era Houses 

He was Ghanian worikng in Abidjan - I bought
piece of mattress material just to make my sleeping mat

Abidjan 

Beautiful Poor Guinea (Conakry)

Entering Guinea changed my thinking of what I have and who I am. First day I slept in the bunch of hay. My plan was to see Mountain and village Mali - one of the internet recommendations unfortunately internet didn't specify way to get to the village - I quickly assumed - from my michelin map this can be done from  Koundara via Termesse village. I have no idea how hard it would be so I track Route National No 9. 

Route Nationale No 9 

First kilometers was not too bad - my motorbike almost gone over sharp edge to the river (was parked and collapsed)  - as I tried to help guinean motorcyclist to repair his chain. Unpaved Road was in thick forest In the first day and half I made 120km - literally I have 10km and Hour (around 6miles an Hour) the road was changed in to small divided path with no direction and nobody to ask - I have only map and the compass. I was going up and down and rear break gone. Second day afternoon 3 km from the summit - my overload yamaha burn it clutch. It was hot and I have to leave some equipment and clothes to local people passing by.  I much believe I was one of few or only first tourist seen from long time or for some maybe first time in their life time. 

3km from the summit my clutch died 

I have no idea what to do but solo glob overlanding - require decisions and I have half an hour water sipping break, just to see "where Iam now". I was 120 km from asphalt road - and no way to push or get transport from here.  I tried to readjust clutch and gears start to operate. I slowly went down down for next 2-3 hours and than slept in the big Forest, in the morning mountain were still decline but soon road was going up once again. My moto stops for good. Small poor villaga was around 200m and boys came, some chines mootorbike stops, I wasn't feel strong as poor sleep eat and liitea water take his tool. I send one of the boys to the village to get me some water, than I started striping side casing of the motorbike . In the same time one of the Chinese motorcycle stops and he was mechanic. He wrapped my clutch plates with piece of clothes and my moto starts and go. I left my camping gears including mat and sleeping bags and much more just to reduce weight of the motorbike. 

Reparation with piece of clothes (still Route Nationale No9)

Slowly I moved back to Koundara when I reach town I was happy as never before. This night and next one I was in the hotel for around 7 euro I had bed with mosquito net 2 buckets of cold water for the shower and toilet - I made washing too.

Route Nationale No9 

hand chain driven ferry 

I moved and went through Labe, Dalabe (1400 m over see level), Mamou where I stayed in Hotel for new year. I took off for Nzerekore through  Kissidougou and Gueckedou. I was riding towards Border with Ivory coast - My plan was to get new clutch disk in Abidjan - Ivory coast Everybody was also  saying That elephants are they - This was National park there but nobody could track me to elephants paths. 

I will keep this memioreis for ever 

Getting to Macenta - close to the border. I was riding through good new roads some bad unpaved roads. Sometimes asphalt was very old and eaten by the sun so the speed was not constant. I had to pay a lot of attention to make hole lees passing. 

Macenta was the ecpicentrum of Ebola of the previous years, couple days ago WHO (world health organization) announce West Africa - ebola free - people were happy and celebrate it. I had luck I meet Eric French man who traveled Africa on old BMW 20 years ago he was Head of Red Cross in Macenta and shared his knowledge about ebola. 

Eric - Head of Macenta Red Cross 

He also made comment that elephant are only the legend and I would have to travel and cross border with Liberia to see the Elephants. 

The Highest Mountains in Guinea

After around 300 kilometers I reached Ivory Coast border I asked Border Police to let me go and check if the Ivory cast border is closed or not? I had to go around 15 km to next post unpved dust road - Border were closed - so the only way to get to Ivory coast was way up to Mali and back down (1000km or more)   - I was tired and slept in the police post at Guinean side border. 

Small Shed just behind my tent is Border - Police Post at Guinea -  Ivory Coast
Can you see robe with all plastic bags tied in to it - yes this is West Afriacan type of border  

Caffe Tree - Guinea -  They use new sponsored EU asphalt road for drying beens 

I wish could write more here - maybe one day when I finish my journey I will write a book and that say more about Guinea and all people there I wish I could transfer all my thinking there. I after Borred was closed I had to go up to Mali. See you in my next entry