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Monday 28 March 2016

Way Up to Europe - End of Stage 1 - stop in Poland

Poland 23.968km of my travel - Technical Stop
 Visas+Re-registration+Insurance etc

Abidjan to Mauritania
From Abidjan to Europe is around 5-6K km. My plan was to go Mali - Senegal - Mauritania - Morocco and than take ferry to Europe and start moving eastbound to Italia, Turkey etc. My Starter was causing problems and seemingly second spare relay was close to his death. I still have to get my rear break to fix it. My friend Slawek - was on the way to Gambia and we decided I will meet him there. He had spares for my motorbike as well. Once again I stoped in Bamako This time I striped down starter and fit new carbon brushes. 

Way to get to starter out is from this side

In Bamako once again I have to get Mauritania Visa - this time was around 130 euro - twice much when I was coming down last year. I also have to wait 2-3days as it was public holidays. Waiting I striped rear break once again clean all parts with normal clean tap water and that was It! The breake worked as new. it must be small dust and sand in the cylinder so it would pump the fluid. 
Way to Senegal was nice and border was much easy from this side - I rode over 400 km every day to make my friend on time. 

road from Bamako to Senegal 


Slawek

We meet at Gambia Border and rode all the way to Dakar.  We have 1 day stop there. Slawek got motorbike license but no much riding - he jump on to big moto - straight away. We both rode to Maurytania border and bad crossing Rosso we made in 3 hours with only small arguments. Ufff....


Puting Camel into small car is not always easy


We Passed Nouakchott and next day morning - engine seized - not to good - We managed to get mini bus and paid around 60 euro for it to get back to Nouakchott. Slawek got plane in 5 days from Marrakech - Morocco so he need go by bus (2000km hi hi), I stayed and found mechanic who kind of repair my moto - please see my other detailed post about all motorbike problems in Western africa and how i solved them. 

after 5 days of stop I finally moved forward towards Mauritania Border. I have only electrical problem in the desert.  I had to sleep in the police check point and repair motorbike in the morning - Mauritania was problem-free crossing and same day I made Dahkla 

Moroccan King 

Red Flags from border were placed in each town of Western Sahara. As Morocco fought Algeria in 80's over this territory. Saharian people got own identity and always willing to have own country. With a help of moroccan army western sahara was annexed and it is now under their power. Some people will still talk about their saharian identity and would not call it Morocco. On the other side Government invest a a lot of money to this deserted area and put cities and civilization. They Have program of sending original marocans to south, co they would make majority of Moroccans there soon. So the true of history is on their side now however on the maps is always marked as Western sahara 

I rode to Dahkla same day as a King's arrival - I would think this is all for my self, hi, hi...The streets were partly blocked and I was zigzaking over the city just to find something to eat. I had some tasty chicken sandwich - Yes Morocco food is tasty - at least compare to black Africa. I parked moto and went to the crowd just to see the king... people were happy and in some reasons not many were using cameras - I did. 
Awaiting for the King
I probably seen king in the passing car and that was it. How good is to be a King. 


Moroccan Mountain 

On the way to Tanger - where ferry to Europe is going - I was going through the big beautiful muntain - The problems occurred  in the top. Evening was nice and I did some 250km this. I pitched tent just after sun gone down, Mountain and sky were red from bleeding sun, Air smell of honey and pine tree, was dark when I got all my tent ready and slept nicely. Cold wake me up after some lazy 2 hours I decided to got up. sun was already there I eat some dried caffe and drink water - I was ready. Route was beautiful 






At 2100m over the see level cold and snow and rain starts to fall down, I put my all clothes and after an hour all was soaked wet, I stop for hot cafe but could not stop shaking from the cold, this was around mid day. I was continue riding till the evening. on the way I stopped in the small town to get some clothes I bought all new trousers, socks, traniners, jumper and panties, and I continue with the wet on me as 2 jackets I had on me was wet too, so no point of getting them changed. I Passed Marakesh and got some cheap local fish food, and than late evening I almost frozen stopped and pitched the tent in dried river bank, I could not stop shaking from the cold until I got completely undressed and put all new dry clothes I had. I usually not make drama but I though I was overcooled I actually was! - rain was continue and stopped in the morning - I slept till morning.




 Atlas Mountains - rain and snow and cold


Ferry to Europe and Austrian Tatra Drive till Graz 

Ferry cost me 260e for berth bed and Motorcycle and was sailing 3 night over Mediterranean see, this was equivalent of 2200km so 7-10 riding of min cost of 400e and tiredness. No much chain and no Tyres left as well no insurance and MOT test. So I was happy I found this ferry. I share berth room (I don't know how to say it in english) with 3 others Moroccan - and after this time without much language I could understand who are they and where they are going. I have made new friends mostly austrian, So I could spent sometimes talking in English and learning Austrian German. Ferry Stops in Barcelona and next day in Genova - the port where Christopher Columbus was leaving for America - wow!


Leaving Africa I was taking big memories souvenir 

Genova 

One of them were people from Desert Dream - when my Moto died in Mauritania I seen their big fast passing Overlanding Tatra in Nouakchott. I Thought it would good if I asked them where can I fix my moto. Than I met Gunther and Gerhart in Garage Sahara they were welding their Nissan front beam. My engine was temporally fixed there but I still need sprockets and chain and Tyres. Rest of them Daniele, Guido and Peter I meet on this Ferry too. https://www.facebook.com/Desert-Dream-157526797600749/?fref=ts



 Desert dream - they take me my poor Yamaha to  their Village in Austria and help finding new parts for moto - I will Remember Big Tatra and their crew Long 


On the ferry They offered me drive to Austria and help to find parts - I was overwhelmed by their "no business" attitude, We put Yamaha in to the back of big 6x6 drive Tatra and we head for Graz. we made in one day wow! In Gerhard Garage we did all parts changed we visit City several times to get all we need for Yamaha, Gerhard Parent are hard working Farmers - They produce all sorts of fruits there, this was Great stop and I will hoping I can see them once again, 


Thank You!!!





Poland - technical Stop and preparation - 
Last Stop Kaliningrad 
end of the stage 1 of my Around the World travel 



From Graz I made 500km cold pass to Ostrava in Chech republic, my insurance was finish in Senegal and technical test for motorbike finish last september. in Ostrava my brother Wojciech send me insurance over the internet so I could almost legal ride moto in Poland. I made around 250km and heavy snow (25 Feb 2016) stopped me at Piotrkow Trybunalski, I found cheep but still expensive hotel for around 30e  - next day I made cold or very cold 300km and my second brother Janusz -Krzysztof and his wife Bernadetta welcome me 20km before Olsztyn my born place. Me and they were Happy I made it!, we all new this is not the end of the travel. 


central Poland in snow

Welcome in Poland 

My Family 


After some days I managed to get new plate and temporary registration document as this is standard procedure here. Waiting for document I went for 5 days in to Kalingrad where I practice my self learned russian. I meet good hearted and interesting people there: Tatyana and Larisa Tourists from Russia and Sasha from the Hostel - Crazy Dog. Thank you for all.













Friday 11 March 2016

Spare Parts - West Africa



My Strategy for breakdown (below list of people will help you in West Africa)
Have minimum critical spare parts - list below - if you don't like to have it time for delivery is 2 weeks - 2 mounths time. if you calculate min 10e a day for waiting (tent plus food) this will become fortune.  Distance to the shope can between 1km to 3000km depends where you are. In Africa in Dakar - Bamako and Abidjan or Yamoussoukro - You have CFEA MOTORS - Japaniess car and motorcycle dealers - usually they have 2 models of 125cc and some spare for them, but no big motorcycle spare parts!


Critical Spare part List (yamaha xt600e)
If you can please take with you (this is what I'm carrying)

Front and rear tube
Tube valve and tool for extracting it
Spark plug
Spark plug cable
HT coil (ignition coil)
Rectifier diode
Generator - alternator winding
CDI ignition module (computer)
Spare fusses
Clutch cable
Throttle cable
Starter  carbon brushes or repair kit
2-3 front/rear spokes

Tools to make all small repair only useful for your type of motorbike

Please be careful with local Mechanics - judge them by their talking and how worksop - if any - looks like - don't agree to the first time price never!



Most of repair and parts I have with me but sometimes you need someone help here is list of my recommendation - those people I used either for parts or help:


Mauritania - Nouakchott  - name Tijani tel 0022246000389 - Garage Sahara around 400m diagonally south west from Camping Sahara ask in the Camping they know him

Senegal - Dakar - Name - Madu tel 00221338683830 or 00221774506667 - Madu Bikes:  Dakar - Yoff - Route de l'aeroport - coordinates from his business card N14'45.300; W 17'28.339

Mali Bamako - Name ''Marocain" tel 0022376481777 - Local big market in the City Center - he would speak french so call for exact location - about 2 km from Yamaha dealer but I can not direct you there


Tijani - Mauritania - Nouakchott he rebuild my top engine 

Mali Bamako -  ''Marocain" I got 5 of 8 new
clutch disc form Him 



Good Luck!
Pawel




Tuesday 1 March 2016

Carnet de Passage, visas and Insurance - Strategy for Bad Borders in West Africa


This contain information from end of 2015 and begin 2016 and covers - Morrocco, Maurtuanin, Senegal - Gambia - Guinea - Mali - Ivory Coast and back
prices are for Motorcycle Yamaha XT600 2002 year


Borders crossing

Duans - Customs - Carnet de Passage - Pasavant 

Carnet de Passage - I didn't buy Carnet - all this countries will accept temporary import document such as ''pasavant" or similar name for the same thing. this is always to deal with "DUANS'' custom service and each border, it is not recommended to use any mediators-transiters as they will take more money of you and same speed of dealing with the border documents

This is what I learned:

1) Prices are not set - they have some official document but it wouldn't be possible or difficult to find how much you need to pay - usually, you will gain experience after one or two bad crossings. You can always make price down when you say you only need transit - I have overstayed in maurtaina and senegal and nobody asked my about it

2)Time is your weapon - take time when crossing borders - NO RUSH

3) Try Early Morning to cross before 12.00 it is not guaranteed but you will have more energy and humor to deal with Official Corrupted Criminals at borders

4) don't listen un-uniformed people - no uniform no talk

5) always talk politely and with humble attitude (I argued at Gambia border once and I was refused enter - I did enter second time latter)

6) If you not agree with paying ask them what is this for

7) Say ''I didn't pay last time'' - it works - but you need to have some expirence or cross some border few time as I did. This not for Pasavant but for extra charges they love to apply for their service,

8) Borders are closed for the night

9) most head of Duans are like "king in the castle" you will go to special room and this is like visiting Pope in Rome

Prices :
Morocco: free no money for pasavant

Mauritania: officially was equivalent of 10e they take 65e - first time, waiting time 22h at the border - second time I paid (from senegal side) 15 e for 5 days pasavant - 3 hours second time (mostly senegal side)

Senegal: - it is all depends.  I Paid different money(several crossing)  from 7e to around 22 e for Pasavant - they will only issue 10 day. Don't worry to much for overstaying - you maybe lucky as I was my motorbike was there 6 months when I crashed and went for operation and at gambia border nobody ask me for showing pasaavant - the other option is to extend in Duans office  for example head of Duans are in Dakar on the place d'impedance dakar

Gambia: - 10 days pasavant around 7e
Guinea: (Conakry) 15e for 30days pasavant
Mali: - no pasavant (from guinea side)
Ivory Coast:  45e for 30 days - this was jus my tactical mistake I could paid less! ahh



Visas 
I am polish passport just now so pleas check if this information will match your visa criteria 

Visas you usually can get visas in neighboring country. Strategy is to check in your country if this is possible before you going travel. If not don't worry make plan, just to reduce disappointment on th way there. All my visas I bought on the way. Usually Consulate and Ambassad are in Capital cities, So when you are in for example Dakar or Bamako Try get as many visas as possible.
Be careful for entry date and valid date this is sometimes confusing even for border police and this is not the same meaning.
You need passport type photographs - I made my self on tripod before I go travel and cheep print in the supermarket Foto shop.  Take 20-30 copies as this will be handy. you usually need one max two per visa application
Waiting time is depends in West africa max 5 days so make plan ahead

Prices and where I got visas:

Morrocco  No Visa - max stay 90 days - for polish passport holders

Mauritania - first time price was around 60e and I got it from Rabat - Morrocco same day service - second time on the way back I got it in Mali - Bamako 120 euro - one entry 30 days visa same day saervice

Senegal No Visa now - it was 60e first time and got it at Rosso Border

Gambia - No visa for European Union Passport Holder- how ever first time Border police try get some money of me and I argued about it - second time I got stamp visitor entry 7 day valid - free

Guinea Conakry - from ambassad in Dakar - 3 days waiting  - 60 euro - 1 entry - 30 days.

Ivory Cast - from ambassad in Dakar it cost around 45e 5 days waiting

Mali - from ambassad in Dakar cost 90 days - 2 entry - 3days waiting



Insurance 

Morocco - European insurance with Green Card - first time i didn't have green card - second on the way back I didn't have insurance at all

Mauritania - separate insurance cost around 30e first time and  second time I didn't have any insurance

All the rest countries using Brown Card type Insurance and you can get this in Senegal. Mine cost 30e for 90 days for all countries I visited


I hope this was helpfull for you