Mali - Ivory Coast - Abidjan as a Turning Point

Mali

I have reached Bamako (14388km of my travel) on the 15 January 2015 - border was pretty much easy - Malian they didn't bother about custom's documents - Police on the Guinean side were slightly dodgy (like criminals) for all non tourist and they tried get some money out of them.

Border Mali - Guinea - Malian side 

I moved happily to Bamako as it was just few hours ride - I made city,  stopped for some snacks and water, and than I lost in the big city (Dakar traffic was much worse). I tried find Sleeping Camel Camping as it was recommended from Lithuanian couple I meet before. As you only navigate by sun and compass and some scans of maps on your laptop sometimes is a difficult. Finally I have made place for this night. I meet big overlanding truck - commercial tour operator  the one I meet in Guinea. 

Next day I went for parts search in Yamaha Dealer in Bamako. Delivery time was minimum  1 month waiting.  Me and Daniel - malian yamaha dealer  went on motorbike market with all second hand motorbikes there My main concern was to get new clutch disk. I got 5 new and 3 old for the 60 euro! I fit those parts same day. After day or two I rode south east to the Ivory coast border - I slept in the bush and next afternoon I crossed border.

Ivory coast 

First impression was not too bad. I was heading towards Yamoussoukro Where I was planing to see famous Basilic - copy of the Vatican. Road was good not new but good with minor holes - few Gendarmerie Stops, much more less crashes than in Guinea

Burn Petrol Tank Cistern - Ivory - Coast

I reached Yamoussoukro after 2 days stop in Ferkesedougu. Starter Relay was causing problems - sticky coil would turn starter forever. I changed relay and problem disappear. In Capital Yamoussoukro - I slept in nice and clean "Hotel du Centr" good price around 10e. I had great big dinner for around 4.5e too. Same evening I visit Yamaha shop and asked for prices for my break cylinder. Next morning I got delivery time - 2 mouths, I would not want so long so decided go rear break less till I find better solution. I visit Basil and with small price total of few euro I got English Speaking guide. He was very good and funny, we spend around an Hour, He also explain political back ground of Ivory Coast. 

Abidjan 15783 km of my travel 
I reached Gulf of Guinea (Grand Bassam and Abidjan) and this was one of the greatest moment of my Round the World Tour. This was more than I originally like to discover - originally I was planing get to Dakar and than transport motorbike overseas. Maybe thanks to my accident and than come back for that travel. Going that direction I was able to see much of beautiful nature of the west Africa. Climate and Forest changed radically around 300km before Abidjan - was much more humid and hot and forest changed from subtropical to tropical rain forest. Wow! I was wet of humid first time in my life. I was happy. I spend couple of days there just to have little celebration of all of this. 

Grand Bassam Beach - the feeling of great achievement - and few days of "Holidays"

I visit Ghana and Burkina Faso - They were only kin to get Transit Visa If I would have another country visa in passport, they were ways to obtaining such as thing but I was quite content to finish my West African Voyage here. I made decision same day that I would come back by Road to Europe and continue East bound. Next day I moved back north to Mali.  please see my next move in my blog. 

Restaurant in Capital - chief cook

 maybe 50 years old still operate in Ivory Coast
- same one's are used in Mauritania and Senegal 

Grand Bassam old Colonial era Houses 

He was Ghanian worikng in Abidjan - I bought
piece of mattress material just to make my sleeping mat

Abidjan 

Beautiful Poor Guinea (Conakry)

Entering Guinea changed my thinking of what I have and who I am. First day I slept in the bunch of hay. My plan was to see Mountain and village Mali - one of the internet recommendations unfortunately internet didn't specify way to get to the village - I quickly assumed - from my michelin map this can be done from  Koundara via Termesse village. I have no idea how hard it would be so I track Route National No 9. 

Route Nationale No 9 

First kilometers was not too bad - my motorbike almost gone over sharp edge to the river (was parked and collapsed)  - as I tried to help guinean motorcyclist to repair his chain. Unpaved Road was in thick forest In the first day and half I made 120km - literally I have 10km and Hour (around 6miles an Hour) the road was changed in to small divided path with no direction and nobody to ask - I have only map and the compass. I was going up and down and rear break gone. Second day afternoon 3 km from the summit - my overload yamaha burn it clutch. It was hot and I have to leave some equipment and clothes to local people passing by.  I much believe I was one of few or only first tourist seen from long time or for some maybe first time in their life time. 

3km from the summit my clutch died 

I have no idea what to do but solo glob overlanding - require decisions and I have half an hour water sipping break, just to see "where Iam now". I was 120 km from asphalt road - and no way to push or get transport from here.  I tried to readjust clutch and gears start to operate. I slowly went down down for next 2-3 hours and than slept in the big Forest, in the morning mountain were still decline but soon road was going up once again. My moto stops for good. Small poor villaga was around 200m and boys came, some chines mootorbike stops, I wasn't feel strong as poor sleep eat and liitea water take his tool. I send one of the boys to the village to get me some water, than I started striping side casing of the motorbike . In the same time one of the Chinese motorcycle stops and he was mechanic. He wrapped my clutch plates with piece of clothes and my moto starts and go. I left my camping gears including mat and sleeping bags and much more just to reduce weight of the motorbike. 

Reparation with piece of clothes (still Route Nationale No9)

Slowly I moved back to Koundara when I reach town I was happy as never before. This night and next one I was in the hotel for around 7 euro I had bed with mosquito net 2 buckets of cold water for the shower and toilet - I made washing too.

Route Nationale No9 

hand chain driven ferry 

I moved and went through Labe, Dalabe (1400 m over see level), Mamou where I stayed in Hotel for new year. I took off for Nzerekore through  Kissidougou and Gueckedou. I was riding towards Border with Ivory coast - My plan was to get new clutch disk in Abidjan - Ivory coast Everybody was also  saying That elephants are they - This was National park there but nobody could track me to elephants paths. 

I will keep this memioreis for ever 

Getting to Macenta - close to the border. I was riding through good new roads some bad unpaved roads. Sometimes asphalt was very old and eaten by the sun so the speed was not constant. I had to pay a lot of attention to make hole lees passing. 

Macenta was the ecpicentrum of Ebola of the previous years, couple days ago WHO (world health organization) announce West Africa - ebola free - people were happy and celebrate it. I had luck I meet Eric French man who traveled Africa on old BMW 20 years ago he was Head of Red Cross in Macenta and shared his knowledge about ebola. 

Eric - Head of Macenta Red Cross 

He also made comment that elephant are only the legend and I would have to travel and cross border with Liberia to see the Elephants. 

The Highest Mountains in Guinea

After around 300 kilometers I reached Ivory Coast border I asked Border Police to let me go and check if the Ivory cast border is closed or not? I had to go around 15 km to next post unpved dust road - Border were closed - so the only way to get to Ivory coast was way up to Mali and back down (1000km or more)   - I was tired and slept in the police post at Guinean side border. 

Small Shed just behind my tent is Border - Police Post at Guinea -  Ivory Coast
Can you see robe with all plastic bags tied in to it - yes this is West Afriacan type of border  

Caffe Tree - Guinea -  They use new sponsored EU asphalt road for drying beens 

I wish could write more here - maybe one day when I finish my journey I will write a book and that say more about Guinea and all people there I wish I could transfer all my thinking there. I after Borred was closed I had to go up to Mali. See you in my next entry 

Dakar - Gambia - Guinea Conakry - Back in Africa

at guinea Conakry border was around 12.150km of my travel

I almost gave up writing. It is more easier not to write when travel.  Travel is writing story it self. 

My only only hope is you will find my writing interesting so hey ho I' am writing for you. 

I was leaving Dakar on the 22 or 23 december - almost same time last year I was leaving Glasgow. Before I took off got more visas for Guinea Conakry - and Mali and Ivory Coast. I've made new subframe for old - BMW panniers. Lutz my dear Dakar friend helped me much and let me sleep in his place for almost 3 weeks and use all his tools. People are my type of travel and he was one of them who helped me much.  Sometimes I wish I could paid him back.  He helped me now and when I first time crossed Senegal and badly crashed my motorbike. I may not be able to paid him and all people back - but is good to know that world is full of people  and some of them are your friends

On the first day of riding  I had bad petrol tank leakage and glued it beside the road. Same day evening (15 min before border was closed) I entered Gambia.  I was second time at this border. First half year ago where I was refused to enter (argument with border police).  This time was widely open and I paid small for border customs for pasavant. I slept on the beach around 2km from city center of Banjul - it was safe and no money spend for sleeping, In the morning I went to see some traction but city - Banjul was very small. My idea for travel is mostly wild camping or cheap accommodation but I like eat one ‘’hot meal” a day, so I went to nice - european restaurant with free wi-fi. I slept in "About the time lodge" in my tent, in the morning I head to Senegal - Casmance - north part of senegal - border was easy and cheerful first zero stress border - I managed to go to Ziguinchor.

Banjul Beach - cheap sleep!

24 Dec - Christmas 

In some reasons I would prefer go faster because this was 23 dec and I'd like to cross the border and have Xmas evening - 24 on the Guinea side. Road was bad and partly was under construction. Forest in Casamas was beautiful. I remember vividly that in Ziguinchor I was asking in the shop: if this is the only one road to Kolda - road was bad, I was raging for that fact the road was bad -  but instantly I realized one good think for the rest of the travel:

                                                to accept all unplanned happens during my travel.

in Other words: Don't blame anyone - it is you who decided go for travel.
Shortly after I was much happier to cross dusty road for that day.
I slept beside the lake 200meters form noisy Senegal village almost no sleep, because of religion preachers were played till morning. In the morning I took off for Kolda -  unique and colorful town, full of people and the vehicle, - I had breakfast in the very African style “cafe”. I did refueling and head for the border(Senegal - Guinea) - around last 100km from the border was only sand roads and no signpost where to go. I stopped several times asking for direction,

Villages were made of clay house and  it was like film.

Village at Senegal to Guinea border

Those people have little, and no stress

People there - in "no civilization" places were kind and happy seeing me. All of them were kin to take picture and small chat in my french-wollof language. My older brother from Poland call me and we had 15 min talk with the whole family - was gathering at their Xmas dinner - They sang christmas song in polish. I was much touched

I made Frontier-border - in some village sharp bend and and piece of wood across the road - this is the border 

- border was easy - next post (Guineas side) was 30km of sand road in good condition - I was fourth person crossing in the last 10 days as this was entered in the border entry book. No surprise - they took time to chat and very long process of document check - they did't know anything about pasavant so they send to see ''Duans" - customs in Kundara

first sleep in Guinea - Water mellon is waiting for my breakfast

Time for Decision

After an operation 

After an Operation in Poland my arm was immobilized for 6 weeks, next 6 weeks was the time for the physiotherapy to make my arm functions back. My polish doctor Robert S, did great job screwing this back and I was happy to see all this modern technology and big surgery team working on my arm in Hospital in Olsztyn. According to his opinion I should have at least 6 months rest from crazy activities. So I did slowly recovering. Madam Ilona from Orneta did my arm working from 30' to around120' so that was big achivemnets for both of us. I was coming day by day for so many weeks to get this mowing up and down, but it was worth it. As I gained my strength i start to be more independent and start doing small and then bigger jobs in my old country house.

Summer where all is blooming and decisions are growing

Poland most distinctive nature has many (more than 4) seasons of the year, and even summer is different every day. It has green and flower period and heat and than rain than is calming down and sun is warming time for the harvest. Than the sun is going lower and lower. Sumer is now called indian summer - "babie lato" (ladies summer). this is time to others fruits and vegetables to be picked and store for the winter, it is time for Harvest fest "dożynki" After this is time to clean the earth for resting in the cold  - winter. But this always come gradually after autumn gate between summer and winter - live and death. At around this time when summer was ending my strength was gaining (rhyme ha ha), I checked option to stay and to go back to my big travel - I ask my self how much I can loose or gain in next few months of travel. I was much matured after this accident and was on the step doors from some kind of new live chapter:

- I decided back to my original plan and continue the journey. I will be back in Dakar in next couple of days.

my little nephew not happy- me too

old airport close to my village

Laura & Martins they did long and dangerous journey to see me

more freinds

friends 

The House

sailing lesson from my brother 

Ales&Martina

Helpers for my house repair, :),,,

My cousin Krystian-visiting me 

me fixing house

small zebras panniers from my old bmw I just paint them

My brothers, they always got different point of view than mine

Hospital in Africa - Insurance - Back for an operation in Europe

Accident 

It's been couple of months, since last rode my zebra motorbike. After Accident I was taken by lieutenant Henri S. (please read my last post) to state hospital in Kedougou -  Senegal. And only by european context I understood how little is there available an how much we having in our world. Yes there was emergency unit with medical staff, they have x-ray and that is pretty much all. I had to paid for all bandages and pils from pharmacy - I was lucky that one of them could speak english, but I knew they will ask for money on the end of it, I understood and agreed to that.  In their opinion my bones were un-touched and I should have some rest,  After "the diagnose"they took me to the hotel. I  lie on the bed in big pain but at this point I realized I could be dead instead of. Now I appreciate I am alive. Thank you to all this people.

Back to Dakar 

After 5 days in hotel (no water in toilet) but with great care of staff I was slowly recovering. For better diagnose I was taken to Dakar.  Mamadu and Lamin - Senegalese sent by Lutz took my bike and me to Dakar (van) - travel was bad - 700km in 18hrs and we puncture 2 tyres at the same time but we made it early morning.  Following week Mr Lo helps me with getting around all hospitals and privates clinics he is very good solving all the problems and he knows all people around there. We did all scans and we visit most of private clinics as well state orthopedic clinic in Dakar, and it took 5 weeks to find reason why my hand remained flat down and no way to lift it up. 

Diagnose 

After all of this, my Senegal doctor Maggate D. reassumed this is displaced greater tuberosity fractures and need to be properly repaired. She suggest the best is to come back to Europe to get this done.  

How the insurance works and how it doesn't 

My travel insurance had medical cover. This was the only insurance covers motorbike travel over 125cc and I bought from Voyager Insurance.  This type of insurance doesn't cover private treatments so they direct me to Dakar biggest state hospital. To get private treatment you would have to buy more expensive proper medical insurance, but you need check if this would cover motorbike travelers. What happened next day after accident: I dialed number by Skype (3th time succeeded) after all my details were passed on I could report my accident and get some advise what to do. They were professionals but they didn't know how national health system would look like in Senegal. I went to state orthopedic hospital but had to use private clinics for diagnose and paid in full. the good point of having this type of insurance was to get my flight back to UK for free. Once I knew I have zero chances for an operation there, Insurance doctor decided to back UK and use NHS facilities there (I have dual citizenship and paid my insurance there) 

back at Glasgow airport 

Flight back Glasgow but an operation in Poland?

I got my flights back booked with my insurance company - I was happy. After long time (5 weeks) waiting for diagnose I like to be back to Europe just to have my arm repair and to have some rest. My flights was from Dakar - Casablanca - London Heathrow and the most cultural shock was in London airport. Compare to Senegal,  people were like single satellites in the crowd, all was nice and smells tidy - automated society. 

Straight from plane I called 24NHS service to get information, next day I was with GP and things looked slow as Senegal I came next day as advised to get appointment with specialist. At that point I was contacting my brother Wojciech from Poland, he actually found solution there and next few days I flew Poland. 

As I arrived I went for more tests and agreed this will be screwed back in state hospital but unfortunately needs to be fully paid (no insurance and national contribution in PL) . I was diagnosed once again and operate - bone was reattached and I got immobilizer I went home next day and this was 10 days after my arrival. This is what we call it ''kwickfix". 

Than 6 weeks immobilization and 6 weeks physiotherapy and than...  

day of my operation in Poland - still not happy face

Kedougou Senegal - Accident

10592km of travel - Kedougou - Senegal 

23 Aprill 2015

Riding from St. Louis down to Dakar was pretty much easy and joyful. I had opportunity to stay with Lutz - great machine inventor and philanthrop. Instead of slepping in the tent I arranged back of the truck to be my home. Lutz was kind and supplied tracker bed and brand new mosquito net. I have spend around two weeks for exploring city and their surroundings. We went to see Ile de Goree and Lac Rose another day. Searching for my motorbike back sprocket and chain we went all the way around Dakar to see their "System Africa".  And this was far more you could see from standard hotel attractions. I seen people making things and repairing and old ones. I was lucky to get closer to society as we were eating together with senegalese people every day. After couple of days I was happy to replace my worn back sprocket and the chain which I got from Madou from Mad Bikes in Dakar - the only one proper workshop in the city. The only difference was that sprocket was 40 not 45 teeth - 45 was available in 6 weeks from Yamaha dealer in dakar. So I made this 40 teeth to fit in my Zebra. 

Gambia border attempt 

Plan was to get to Gambia and trying to find more shipping opportunities as in Dakar the only chance was cargo ship but the informations wasn't clear enough. At the border Karang with Gambia - I moved smoothly through the Senegal side and on the Gambian side I meet corrupted resistance of the police force. For European passport I don't need visa to Gambia so I went to the police station with some confidence. Border police was asking me for my job and some information to track how wealth customer I am. I just have to wait for they call "Big Boss" to come. I only understood that he's trying to sell me visa. I knew that this is the only money for his pocket and others there - this time I could not resist and ask him for his name and the paper copy of visa requirement. He refused so I took my passport and said that this is no right and this is killing tourism and money flow to his country and I walked away "exited". I sat on my moto and back onto Senegalese side.

Accident 

I slept on the dry salt lake 10 km south-west from Kaolack. Than moved towards Mali border to make border town of Kedougou for the night. Stopped in Tambacounda for rice and chicken and than off west. Weather was hot and no wind, temperature was reaching 42'C this days in the region. Water in the bottles was almost boiling. First time in my life I see this heat. The target was much over 350 km this day and I was trying made Kedougou before sunset. At some point sun was low and visibility poorer. Tarmac (asphalt) was radiating heat of the day. I start go faster and thoughtless. I had 72 km to make today. Half of the liter of water left... I stopped last time for a photo. Few kilometers after I went into uneven patches of road, cruise speed was around 80-90km but I slowed down to possible 60-70km and this was over.  I lost control of the machine. I knew I was done. Couldn't do anything anymore. I felt weight of the bike and magical catapulting force directed to the right of the bike - that was scary. My right feet stock between motorbike and the red gravel and than I was shoot in to the air. I landed and filing like the sun between my back is shaded by the falling down overloaded Yamaha. I only leaned forward to make room for machine to crashed behind my back.... silence and stoping big truck who must see what was happening.... than soar of my right feet and my right shoulder. I crawled away. All luggage from right side zebra pannier was spread all over for about 10m of lengh. I tried to stand but my feet was in pain. I smoked cigaret. Last water bottle was burst. I try to communicate with first truckers stopped. I asked them somehow for the water. Their water was very hot and taste diesel...

The next minute I see that man in military uniform - he act professionally and speak some english. He checked my bones for damaged. He organized transport for my motorbike and explained that he will take me to the hospital in Kedougou. He's name is Henri S. He is senegal lieutenant from Kaolack. He saved me this night. Thank you Henri! 

The rest of the story is hospital and than a hotel. The X ray didn't show broken bones. I was enough in pain from scratches and wounds on my left palm and right feet. As well suspected damaged to right arm wasn't make it easier. However I was happy I'm alive. I was happy that Henri - Soldier came same road and helped me. At the hospital I remember I asked someone to bring me water from the shop.Taste of water was amazing. After all this pain and stress and unknown few hours  in hospital water taste was truly amazing 

I will write you more about hospital next time

On the way to Mali. Last night wild camping

Very hot day, an hour before accident

Zebraless Yamaha 

Day after crash I got my motorbike from  Gendarmerie  

This is Henr S. He saved me from further pain taking to Hospital 

Thank You Henri, Thank you Senegal

Morocco - Mauritania - Senegal

03.04.15 Camping Palava 7 - St. Louis - Senegal 9041km

Crossing Morocco - Mauritania Border was hell. I spent 45 minutes on Marocco site and I only had problem with my map, that was not politically correct and it still have Western Sahara mark as the country. After very exiting "chat" with officer and my explanation that I'm heading south to Mauritania - map was given to me and the gate was open. what my I seen was far from any kind of civilization - moon countryside and wreckage  of many cars, left here with different reasons. I had to climb up and down on very uneven surface - rock - ''road'' to get to Mauritania. the other side was just a joke - nothing I seen before in my life - Police haven't any appearance and behavior. Custom was closed so I had to sleep in my tent outside the post. without little sleep as my leg was causing me a problems whole night - I woke up and smoke cigarets - as I normally wasn't smoking. It took me another 6-7 hours to get all document done. I have paid something around 45 euro more than I supposedly pay.  Slowly and painfully I moved towards the gate and than arrived in Nouadhibou

Nouadhibou was a good spot and I stayed in some camping - below average with own room and motorbike secured. I there I meet Alex and Shamoon two motorbikers on the their XT 600, I have borrowed them mine starter solenoid, just to make their machine running.

I after few days of rest my leg was healed and I rode around 500km to Nouakchott where I spent next days finding oil with normal price - stayed in Auberge Sahara - very recommended place, I stroked my clutch and put new parts with new oil and filter, Next day me and my Yamaha friends - they came back last night - we rode to Rosso Border - witch is known as the worst crossing in Africa - corruption. this time we had some contacts and we paid very little for "help" to cross - we
were done in 3-4 hours and stayed for that night in St Louis - Senegal

I am in Palava 7 camping now, best bathroom in whole Western Africa so far  ( http://7palava.com ).
Tomorrow I should move further down south, reach Dakar
See you next time.

On the way to Nouakchott 

Nouakchott fishermans

Nouakchott - Auberge Sahara 

Rosso - Mauritania - Senegal Border 

St Louis Senegal 

St Lois Senegal 

Palava 7 - Camping 15 km south from St Louis Senegal