Time for Decision

After an operation 

After an Operation in Poland my arm was immobilized for 6 weeks, next 6 weeks was the time for the physiotherapy to make my arm functions back. My polish doctor Robert S, did great job screwing this back and I was happy to see all this modern technology and big surgery team working on my arm in Hospital in Olsztyn. According to his opinion I should have at least 6 months rest from crazy activities. So I did slowly recovering. Madam Ilona from Orneta did my arm working from 30' to around120' so that was big achivemnets for both of us. I was coming day by day for so many weeks to get this mowing up and down, but it was worth it. As I gained my strength i start to be more independent and start doing small and then bigger jobs in my old country house.

Summer where all is blooming and decisions are growing

Poland most distinctive nature has many (more than 4) seasons of the year, and even summer is different every day. It has green and flower period and heat and than rain than is calming down and sun is warming time for the harvest. Than the sun is going lower and lower. Sumer is now called indian summer - "babie lato" (ladies summer). this is time to others fruits and vegetables to be picked and store for the winter, it is time for Harvest fest "dożynki" After this is time to clean the earth for resting in the cold  - winter. But this always come gradually after autumn gate between summer and winter - live and death. At around this time when summer was ending my strength was gaining (rhyme ha ha), I checked option to stay and to go back to my big travel - I ask my self how much I can loose or gain in next few months of travel. I was much matured after this accident and was on the step doors from some kind of new live chapter:

- I decided back to my original plan and continue the journey. I will be back in Dakar in next couple of days.

my little nephew not happy- me too

old airport close to my village

Laura & Martins they did long and dangerous journey to see me

more freinds

friends 

The House

sailing lesson from my brother 

Ales&Martina

Helpers for my house repair, :),,,

My cousin Krystian-visiting me 

me fixing house

small zebras panniers from my old bmw I just paint them

My brothers, they always got different point of view than mine

Hospital in Africa - Insurance - Back for an operation in Europe

Accident 

It's been couple of months, since last rode my zebra motorbike. After Accident I was taken by lieutenant Henri S. (please read my last post) to state hospital in Kedougou -  Senegal. And only by european context I understood how little is there available an how much we having in our world. Yes there was emergency unit with medical staff, they have x-ray and that is pretty much all. I had to paid for all bandages and pils from pharmacy - I was lucky that one of them could speak english, but I knew they will ask for money on the end of it, I understood and agreed to that.  In their opinion my bones were un-touched and I should have some rest,  After "the diagnose"they took me to the hotel. I  lie on the bed in big pain but at this point I realized I could be dead instead of. Now I appreciate I am alive. Thank you to all this people.

Back to Dakar 

After 5 days in hotel (no water in toilet) but with great care of staff I was slowly recovering. For better diagnose I was taken to Dakar.  Mamadu and Lamin - Senegalese sent by Lutz took my bike and me to Dakar (van) - travel was bad - 700km in 18hrs and we puncture 2 tyres at the same time but we made it early morning.  Following week Mr Lo helps me with getting around all hospitals and privates clinics he is very good solving all the problems and he knows all people around there. We did all scans and we visit most of private clinics as well state orthopedic clinic in Dakar, and it took 5 weeks to find reason why my hand remained flat down and no way to lift it up. 

Diagnose 

After all of this, my Senegal doctor Maggate D. reassumed this is displaced greater tuberosity fractures and need to be properly repaired. She suggest the best is to come back to Europe to get this done.  

How the insurance works and how it doesn't 

My travel insurance had medical cover. This was the only insurance covers motorbike travel over 125cc and I bought from Voyager Insurance.  This type of insurance doesn't cover private treatments so they direct me to Dakar biggest state hospital. To get private treatment you would have to buy more expensive proper medical insurance, but you need check if this would cover motorbike travelers. What happened next day after accident: I dialed number by Skype (3th time succeeded) after all my details were passed on I could report my accident and get some advise what to do. They were professionals but they didn't know how national health system would look like in Senegal. I went to state orthopedic hospital but had to use private clinics for diagnose and paid in full. the good point of having this type of insurance was to get my flight back to UK for free. Once I knew I have zero chances for an operation there, Insurance doctor decided to back UK and use NHS facilities there (I have dual citizenship and paid my insurance there) 

back at Glasgow airport 

Flight back Glasgow but an operation in Poland?

I got my flights back booked with my insurance company - I was happy. After long time (5 weeks) waiting for diagnose I like to be back to Europe just to have my arm repair and to have some rest. My flights was from Dakar - Casablanca - London Heathrow and the most cultural shock was in London airport. Compare to Senegal,  people were like single satellites in the crowd, all was nice and smells tidy - automated society. 

Straight from plane I called 24NHS service to get information, next day I was with GP and things looked slow as Senegal I came next day as advised to get appointment with specialist. At that point I was contacting my brother Wojciech from Poland, he actually found solution there and next few days I flew Poland. 

As I arrived I went for more tests and agreed this will be screwed back in state hospital but unfortunately needs to be fully paid (no insurance and national contribution in PL) . I was diagnosed once again and operate - bone was reattached and I got immobilizer I went home next day and this was 10 days after my arrival. This is what we call it ''kwickfix". 

Than 6 weeks immobilization and 6 weeks physiotherapy and than...  

day of my operation in Poland - still not happy face

Kedougou Senegal - Accident

10592km of travel - Kedougou - Senegal 

23 Aprill 2015

Riding from St. Louis down to Dakar was pretty much easy and joyful. I had opportunity to stay with Lutz - great machine inventor and philanthrop. Instead of slepping in the tent I arranged back of the truck to be my home. Lutz was kind and supplied tracker bed and brand new mosquito net. I have spend around two weeks for exploring city and their surroundings. We went to see Ile de Goree and Lac Rose another day. Searching for my motorbike back sprocket and chain we went all the way around Dakar to see their "System Africa".  And this was far more you could see from standard hotel attractions. I seen people making things and repairing and old ones. I was lucky to get closer to society as we were eating together with senegalese people every day. After couple of days I was happy to replace my worn back sprocket and the chain which I got from Madou from Mad Bikes in Dakar - the only one proper workshop in the city. The only difference was that sprocket was 40 not 45 teeth - 45 was available in 6 weeks from Yamaha dealer in dakar. So I made this 40 teeth to fit in my Zebra. 

Gambia border attempt 

Plan was to get to Gambia and trying to find more shipping opportunities as in Dakar the only chance was cargo ship but the informations wasn't clear enough. At the border Karang with Gambia - I moved smoothly through the Senegal side and on the Gambian side I meet corrupted resistance of the police force. For European passport I don't need visa to Gambia so I went to the police station with some confidence. Border police was asking me for my job and some information to track how wealth customer I am. I just have to wait for they call "Big Boss" to come. I only understood that he's trying to sell me visa. I knew that this is the only money for his pocket and others there - this time I could not resist and ask him for his name and the paper copy of visa requirement. He refused so I took my passport and said that this is no right and this is killing tourism and money flow to his country and I walked away "exited". I sat on my moto and back onto Senegalese side.

Accident 

I slept on the dry salt lake 10 km south-west from Kaolack. Than moved towards Mali border to make border town of Kedougou for the night. Stopped in Tambacounda for rice and chicken and than off west. Weather was hot and no wind, temperature was reaching 42'C this days in the region. Water in the bottles was almost boiling. First time in my life I see this heat. The target was much over 350 km this day and I was trying made Kedougou before sunset. At some point sun was low and visibility poorer. Tarmac (asphalt) was radiating heat of the day. I start go faster and thoughtless. I had 72 km to make today. Half of the liter of water left... I stopped last time for a photo. Few kilometers after I went into uneven patches of road, cruise speed was around 80-90km but I slowed down to possible 60-70km and this was over.  I lost control of the machine. I knew I was done. Couldn't do anything anymore. I felt weight of the bike and magical catapulting force directed to the right of the bike - that was scary. My right feet stock between motorbike and the red gravel and than I was shoot in to the air. I landed and filing like the sun between my back is shaded by the falling down overloaded Yamaha. I only leaned forward to make room for machine to crashed behind my back.... silence and stoping big truck who must see what was happening.... than soar of my right feet and my right shoulder. I crawled away. All luggage from right side zebra pannier was spread all over for about 10m of lengh. I tried to stand but my feet was in pain. I smoked cigaret. Last water bottle was burst. I try to communicate with first truckers stopped. I asked them somehow for the water. Their water was very hot and taste diesel...

The next minute I see that man in military uniform - he act professionally and speak some english. He checked my bones for damaged. He organized transport for my motorbike and explained that he will take me to the hospital in Kedougou. He's name is Henri S. He is senegal lieutenant from Kaolack. He saved me this night. Thank you Henri! 

The rest of the story is hospital and than a hotel. The X ray didn't show broken bones. I was enough in pain from scratches and wounds on my left palm and right feet. As well suspected damaged to right arm wasn't make it easier. However I was happy I'm alive. I was happy that Henri - Soldier came same road and helped me. At the hospital I remember I asked someone to bring me water from the shop.Taste of water was amazing. After all this pain and stress and unknown few hours  in hospital water taste was truly amazing 

I will write you more about hospital next time

On the way to Mali. Last night wild camping

Very hot day, an hour before accident

Zebraless Yamaha 

Day after crash I got my motorbike from  Gendarmerie  

This is Henr S. He saved me from further pain taking to Hospital 

Thank You Henri, Thank you Senegal

Morocco - Mauritania - Senegal

03.04.15 Camping Palava 7 - St. Louis - Senegal 9041km

Crossing Morocco - Mauritania Border was hell. I spent 45 minutes on Marocco site and I only had problem with my map, that was not politically correct and it still have Western Sahara mark as the country. After very exiting "chat" with officer and my explanation that I'm heading south to Mauritania - map was given to me and the gate was open. what my I seen was far from any kind of civilization - moon countryside and wreckage  of many cars, left here with different reasons. I had to climb up and down on very uneven surface - rock - ''road'' to get to Mauritania. the other side was just a joke - nothing I seen before in my life - Police haven't any appearance and behavior. Custom was closed so I had to sleep in my tent outside the post. without little sleep as my leg was causing me a problems whole night - I woke up and smoke cigarets - as I normally wasn't smoking. It took me another 6-7 hours to get all document done. I have paid something around 45 euro more than I supposedly pay.  Slowly and painfully I moved towards the gate and than arrived in Nouadhibou

Nouadhibou was a good spot and I stayed in some camping - below average with own room and motorbike secured. I there I meet Alex and Shamoon two motorbikers on the their XT 600, I have borrowed them mine starter solenoid, just to make their machine running.

I after few days of rest my leg was healed and I rode around 500km to Nouakchott where I spent next days finding oil with normal price - stayed in Auberge Sahara - very recommended place, I stroked my clutch and put new parts with new oil and filter, Next day me and my Yamaha friends - they came back last night - we rode to Rosso Border - witch is known as the worst crossing in Africa - corruption. this time we had some contacts and we paid very little for "help" to cross - we
were done in 3-4 hours and stayed for that night in St Louis - Senegal

I am in Palava 7 camping now, best bathroom in whole Western Africa so far  ( http://7palava.com ).
Tomorrow I should move further down south, reach Dakar
See you next time.

On the way to Nouakchott 

Nouakchott fishermans

Nouakchott - Auberge Sahara 

Rosso - Mauritania - Senegal Border 

St Louis Senegal 

St Lois Senegal 

Palava 7 - Camping 15 km south from St Louis Senegal 

Agadir - Morocco - heading down to Mauritania

6376 km of my travel - Agadir - Morocco

Luckily I  got to Agadir. from Spanish port in Africa Ceuta I done few hundreds of kilometers. In Rabat I got visa to Mauritania. It suppose take 2 days to process my applications, but ''very important person from embassy'' exelarate my case. So  I got visa in half and hour. than I went down to the Casablanca. Before this happened I have wild camp on the beautiful beach of Marocco. In the morning - quick maintenance on motorbike to adjust and lubricate chain. Than quick start to make my kilometers for today - to quick to fast!!!! What  a bad luck - i crashed just few meters after I start. road was kind of hard bit with some sand patches so I catapulted in of of them. Few scratches and bruises. Front wind shield too was the main toll to be paid for my rush!. 

Next stop was a Casablanca - beautiful city - but I lost in the evening trying to get out of the city. slept in some green been field when working woman wake me up in the morning. Next night - 40 km from Agadir - great view for the Ocean and around 400m attitude from the see level. in the morning young man join me with my fried potato breakfast - he didn't like my style but he could speak some english. 

I now heading down to Mauritania. Next few days seems to be hard work on riding

See you next time. 

Entering Africa

Rabat - Morocco 12/3/15 5616 km of my travel

After long 10 weeks in Europe I have managed to get to south of Spain to Algeciras. Ferries go to Ceuta or Tangier port. I decided go to Ceuta, reason for that was the town is still Spanish and I will have little stop there. Night before leaving, hotel lady said that I need to have some documents to enter Morocco. Green card - vehicle insurance special for riding in Morocco. I didn't have and as I checked this latter I didn't have temporarily importing document as well. I have spent some time in internet and got this document free of charge just from Moroccan government website. very helpful was this info http://www.morocco-overland.com/docs/ .I still don't have motorbike insurance but will   try get in Rabat.
The  ferry crossing was one hour. After unloading I stopped for food shopping and than got to border. The border was a big mess, with all traffic and people going both direction. A well a lot of helpers too. One was saying he is working for Moroccan ministry... ministry of what?
After some time I spoke to Spanish policemen and he explained me what to do. I have meet official - (with a badge) border advisor he offered me a help but refuse 5 euro tip as he said this is to small so I paid donation of 10 euro. Ahh well that was fun a bit too.
I refuel and changed money after the border -  still could not find insurance broker I rode down to Rabat motorway. On some stop I have heard Latvian language and with closer look there was to riders from Sigulda, one had problem with battery so we pushed his super chopper bike and rode around 186 km to Rabat where we found hotel for this night,
Today I'm playing get mauritanian visa at embassy. I am very tired but will try get it and have some rest.
PS. City looks very interesting, I like noise from the street and scooters riders style.

Latvian Riders from Sigulda in Morocco

Lisbon - Portugal 4200km 18/02/2015

Why Spain is better than France but not good as Portugal 

From Bordeaux to Lisbon. 

Heading down south, I stopped in Bordeaux. Weather was cold and I made like 300km on the one go. Quite cold and very fast for "Zebra". I was happy to reach self catering apartments. Went for shopping and on the way back my rear tyre blown - luckily with around 50km per hour speed and only 300meters from the hotel. Time was 21.00 and I was hungry. I ate and sleep. Next day when I approach my moto - Geoffrey - french man stopped and helped me changing tyre. He went for garage to replaced broken inner tube - valve just came off. In the mean time another people just stopped. One left me chocolate another stopped and we have played some music on the guitar! Yes they made my day. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zTn3gKSVHQ

Next day I visit Senegal consulate - to be explained that the only way is get visa by online website. next day I rode down the Spain. Weather was colder where the Pyrenees are. I stopped in very cold Hostel. Same night I went to see city. Morning was warm and I have great time taking pictures. the most remembered picture was man drawing some message on the sand. I it looks like very personal idea or mental disorder.

Santander. I stopped for tree days in the city center - good as Bordeaux self catering apartments. Next day I stayed in the bed as I need good rest after last few days. Before my departure to Spanish Galicia I went see beach, Amazing was that a lot of - Spanish people would stop and chat. No many would speak word of english, but their enthusiasm was over everything I see so far.

First night Camping. Sun was lowering and I knew that there is no booking for tonight. So the only solution was to find some hidden place to pitch the tent. Same time my Sat-Nav wrongly direct me in to old road - as it was not been updated. Luckily that was it. I found place on the Galician cliffs. Night was close. I camouflage my Moto with basha - tent, my mother made for me. I made my tent and small fire to cook water. Stars was bright and see was laud.

Next day I moved west to see the most northwest part of Spain. Rain was starting sometimes but all views were amazing, It took me 2 days to get to A Coruna. I still don't know what was that trees in the huge forest. All the hills with some fog and sun and small villages around - can not be translated in to writing and you must to see it (road AC-862 from Cervo - west south). 

Porto… most beautiful city I've seen. But the most Remembered thing was hostel Tattva.  I just booked it randomly. It is design hostel with over 120 beds and the atmosphere - and staff was just perfect! This is like family business and I meet owners and their parents - amazing and kind people, who really care. Not surprising this hostel is "The best big Hostel in the World of 2014''.  Me my Indian and Palestinian friends went for dinner with the owner parents - I haven't see so much hospitality in any business. If you ever come to Porto: see this hostel and this will change your view of accommodation. http://tattvadesignhostel.com

On The way to Lisbon I visit Torras Verdas Carnival - as the local say it is the only first and real carnival on the world and Brazilian is just try to imitate it. This was first night I slept in the park, happily I have my tent with me.

I am now in Lisbon and will see what will happened today. See you next Time 

How I see France 

24/1/15 Getigne 35km from Nantes 

I have travel very little in my life. To go fast on motorbike it is not a deal. Motorways, cheap accommodation and Mcdonalds are everywhere and this is not always an attraction. I was luck enough to meet Dan an Irish man and his wife Annie - hard working French lady. With all my skills they let me come to their house  and help them there. There is few animals here. River is across the garden and with all wood around makes this amazing place for living. 

Sophie stays in the house - youngest daughter of Dan and Annie, she study in Nantes and today she will make french desert as I do my polish Bigos. French know it  as a Choucroute- kind of meet and sour cabbage stew. The people seemingly like this house and I have chance to see more than 20 new people in last 2 weeks. They all would like sit at the table either just for a drinks and snack or for long - talk and eat dinner. Yesterday for example I have meet Loic and Eva. They kindly lend me their own welding machine as I need make proper front luggage mounting for Yamaha. They moved from Paris to village few years ago and now they are look after a farm. Today I have seen their 3 day old - shaky leg new born sheep. So people are coming visit here most of the days of the week. 

I’m around in the center of Musacadet area. Today Dan took me to the Stephane and Vincent local vineyard - Domaine des Cognettes. They are sixth generations of vine making in here. They make all sort of vine from Melon Bourgogne grapes. This is very unique grape and the wine is dry. Seemingly taste is similar to some white vines I tried from Bulgaria, Romania and Hungary, but please forgive me for my unprofessionalism. Vine doesn’t need good soil to grow, need good weather, and a lot of work. Two brothers running this vineyards look like they literally grown form the vineyards soil. 

3 days old

10 Jan 15 

milies 1023 Nantes -France 

Yamaha XT 600E, preparation for world tour 

This is my 15th day of my journey. I’m writing this, from my - luckily 2 stars hotel. Weather is cold and Im not used to ride long distance too, motorbike is going ok, however gears are clicking noiser and rear suspension is overload.

About motorbike

This is last year model of famous Yamaha XT 600E , this motorbike was design for Paris -Dakar in 80’s, and was called Tennere, With some alterations mainly was around late 90’s new frame and some small changes, last till 2002. Than last motorbike left factory and I believe mine is one of them too.

I bought this bike from the person from  Brighton UK (I was living Glasgow), Milage was 5200, and I checked chassis  and engine numbers before I bit on ebay.  I bought it for £1170 plus transportation. I hire a mini van and drove there from Glasgow - long journey and that was first few hundred miles together, 

After around two months moto was stolen abused and luckily after 3 days - like Jesus resurrection  - I got her back.  Some Glasgow kids were riding around and finally they had small crashed and runawayed, so I had to fix it and put on the road. 

In the process of preaparing I striped all electrics and got all critical spares too.  have clean roast and painted partially. I replaced 17 liters tank into bigger 23 liters Acerbis  (I bought on ebay with small whole and glued for little price). I put front perspex wind screen. I replaced tyres - budget on and off road, but they were tested by Zen motorbikers (online overland shop). To take my luggage I got second hand subframe cut and welded by my self, I replaced front wheel bearings, and clean breaks too, I put new oil and filter, additionally I added small petrol tap to fill my Coleman petrol stove too. I also added small mudguard extension  for the front guard.

I spend over 3 month in my back garden tent like workshop, making all this changes. I completely missed to make loaded test and see how is suspension work. Now I see rear suspension is far too soft. I have adjusted but still not great for 100% yet. With around 70kg load and my self almost 100kg you need slack chain, fully loaded motorbike will tension chain so you need experiment and make some adjustment. 

The most important I have learned is to get proper parts - no the cheapest from online shops, this will break shortly (my chain and sprocket set burst after 3-4 weeks of riding. luckily this was still in Glasgow. 

I will put more stories as soon as I make some progress with my travel .so see you than.

Pornichet west France near Nantes