Lisbon - Portugal 4200km 18/02/2015

Why Spain is better than France but not good as Portugal 

From Bordeaux to Lisbon. 

Heading down south, I stopped in Bordeaux. Weather was cold and I made like 300km on the one go. Quite cold and very fast for "Zebra". I was happy to reach self catering apartments. Went for shopping and on the way back my rear tyre blown - luckily with around 50km per hour speed and only 300meters from the hotel. Time was 21.00 and I was hungry. I ate and sleep. Next day when I approach my moto - Geoffrey - french man stopped and helped me changing tyre. He went for garage to replaced broken inner tube - valve just came off. In the mean time another people just stopped. One left me chocolate another stopped and we have played some music on the guitar! Yes they made my day. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zTn3gKSVHQ

Next day I visit Senegal consulate - to be explained that the only way is get visa by online website. next day I rode down the Spain. Weather was colder where the Pyrenees are. I stopped in very cold Hostel. Same night I went to see city. Morning was warm and I have great time taking pictures. the most remembered picture was man drawing some message on the sand. I it looks like very personal idea or mental disorder.

Santander. I stopped for tree days in the city center - good as Bordeaux self catering apartments. Next day I stayed in the bed as I need good rest after last few days. Before my departure to Spanish Galicia I went see beach, Amazing was that a lot of - Spanish people would stop and chat. No many would speak word of english, but their enthusiasm was over everything I see so far.

First night Camping. Sun was lowering and I knew that there is no booking for tonight. So the only solution was to find some hidden place to pitch the tent. Same time my Sat-Nav wrongly direct me in to old road - as it was not been updated. Luckily that was it. I found place on the Galician cliffs. Night was close. I camouflage my Moto with basha - tent, my mother made for me. I made my tent and small fire to cook water. Stars was bright and see was laud.

Next day I moved west to see the most northwest part of Spain. Rain was starting sometimes but all views were amazing, It took me 2 days to get to A Coruna. I still don't know what was that trees in the huge forest. All the hills with some fog and sun and small villages around - can not be translated in to writing and you must to see it (road AC-862 from Cervo - west south). 

Porto… most beautiful city I've seen. But the most Remembered thing was hostel Tattva.  I just booked it randomly. It is design hostel with over 120 beds and the atmosphere - and staff was just perfect! This is like family business and I meet owners and their parents - amazing and kind people, who really care. Not surprising this hostel is "The best big Hostel in the World of 2014''.  Me my Indian and Palestinian friends went for dinner with the owner parents - I haven't see so much hospitality in any business. If you ever come to Porto: see this hostel and this will change your view of accommodation. http://tattvadesignhostel.com

On The way to Lisbon I visit Torras Verdas Carnival - as the local say it is the only first and real carnival on the world and Brazilian is just try to imitate it. This was first night I slept in the park, happily I have my tent with me.

I am now in Lisbon and will see what will happened today. See you next Time 

How I see France 

24/1/15 Getigne 35km from Nantes 

I have travel very little in my life. To go fast on motorbike it is not a deal. Motorways, cheap accommodation and Mcdonalds are everywhere and this is not always an attraction. I was luck enough to meet Dan an Irish man and his wife Annie - hard working French lady. With all my skills they let me come to their house  and help them there. There is few animals here. River is across the garden and with all wood around makes this amazing place for living. 

Sophie stays in the house - youngest daughter of Dan and Annie, she study in Nantes and today she will make french desert as I do my polish Bigos. French know it  as a Choucroute- kind of meet and sour cabbage stew. The people seemingly like this house and I have chance to see more than 20 new people in last 2 weeks. They all would like sit at the table either just for a drinks and snack or for long - talk and eat dinner. Yesterday for example I have meet Loic and Eva. They kindly lend me their own welding machine as I need make proper front luggage mounting for Yamaha. They moved from Paris to village few years ago and now they are look after a farm. Today I have seen their 3 day old - shaky leg new born sheep. So people are coming visit here most of the days of the week. 

I’m around in the center of Musacadet area. Today Dan took me to the Stephane and Vincent local vineyard - Domaine des Cognettes. They are sixth generations of vine making in here. They make all sort of vine from Melon Bourgogne grapes. This is very unique grape and the wine is dry. Seemingly taste is similar to some white vines I tried from Bulgaria, Romania and Hungary, but please forgive me for my unprofessionalism. Vine doesn’t need good soil to grow, need good weather, and a lot of work. Two brothers running this vineyards look like they literally grown form the vineyards soil. 

3 days old

10 Jan 15 

milies 1023 Nantes -France 

Yamaha XT 600E, preparation for world tour 

This is my 15th day of my journey. I’m writing this, from my - luckily 2 stars hotel. Weather is cold and Im not used to ride long distance too, motorbike is going ok, however gears are clicking noiser and rear suspension is overload.

About motorbike

This is last year model of famous Yamaha XT 600E , this motorbike was design for Paris -Dakar in 80’s, and was called Tennere, With some alterations mainly was around late 90’s new frame and some small changes, last till 2002. Than last motorbike left factory and I believe mine is one of them too.

I bought this bike from the person from  Brighton UK (I was living Glasgow), Milage was 5200, and I checked chassis  and engine numbers before I bit on ebay.  I bought it for £1170 plus transportation. I hire a mini van and drove there from Glasgow - long journey and that was first few hundred miles together, 

After around two months moto was stolen abused and luckily after 3 days - like Jesus resurrection  - I got her back.  Some Glasgow kids were riding around and finally they had small crashed and runawayed, so I had to fix it and put on the road. 

In the process of preaparing I striped all electrics and got all critical spares too.  have clean roast and painted partially. I replaced 17 liters tank into bigger 23 liters Acerbis  (I bought on ebay with small whole and glued for little price). I put front perspex wind screen. I replaced tyres - budget on and off road, but they were tested by Zen motorbikers (online overland shop). To take my luggage I got second hand subframe cut and welded by my self, I replaced front wheel bearings, and clean breaks too, I put new oil and filter, additionally I added small petrol tap to fill my Coleman petrol stove too. I also added small mudguard extension  for the front guard.

I spend over 3 month in my back garden tent like workshop, making all this changes. I completely missed to make loaded test and see how is suspension work. Now I see rear suspension is far too soft. I have adjusted but still not great for 100% yet. With around 70kg load and my self almost 100kg you need slack chain, fully loaded motorbike will tension chain so you need experiment and make some adjustment. 

The most important I have learned is to get proper parts - no the cheapest from online shops, this will break shortly (my chain and sprocket set burst after 3-4 weeks of riding. luckily this was still in Glasgow. 

I will put more stories as soon as I make some progress with my travel .so see you than.

Pornichet west France near Nantes

New Year is coming: France - Dunkirk
31 Dec 14
miles: 404

This is my 6 day of travel and 4 country already. I still learning how to ride my heavy loaded Yamaha. I've visit Amsterdam, Antwerp, Bruges and now I'm in Dunkirk. I will have my new year celebration in hotel room, with TV and all 3 stars goodies included: bed, toilet and slow internet - but I am happy to be here! Will try visit Paris shortly and see if I can get some visas there for the future use. I wish I could know more french than: Je ne parle pas francais. I will try to learn. Now I'm going to see Dunkirk attractions as I stayed on the outskirts of the town. I will have to ride my "Zebra" to the port and see. Last they of the year, so I see you in new 2015, I wish you all the best - the best for you.

Port in Dunkirk

''In Bruges"

Departure Glasgow - Newcastle - Amsterdam
28/Dec/14
miles 200 (+ferry)


I'm already in Europe. Last 3 days, no much sleep and eat, and a lot of stress. After long months of preparation, I left Glasgow on 26 Dec. Riding to Newcastle and taking ferry - DFDS - straight to Amsterdam I have no much option - the weather start worsening.
Leaving was much terrible than a weather, after I left my work - sadly - with great people there (and good money too).  I had to leave my little love too - Mariola - and that was the most sad thing we had to go trough. I couldn't resist desire to my travel, so that's why I sacrificed so much.
The most remembered moments from my first days, was few. Hotel in Newcastle - mini room with huge radiator - price for the room was so little - but I had to sleep with window full open and I was sweat (temperature outside was "-1" Celsius). Ferry was great experience too, I was imaging people on the Titanic ship with all luxury bars shops and cinemas - I was on deck 7 and that was 11 decks tall ferry (more floors that block of flats we were growing in Olsztyn). Today I've seen great thing as well. I was already in Nederland - in small town called Ijmuiden - there was an old lady probably around 70, her moped probably same age had a kickstart. She was trying start it. No helmet, no nothing but after few strong kicks, her moto just started and she disappear. I wish I could have this spirit sometimes.

Newcastle ferry terminal 

Heemskerk in Nederland - good hostel 30km from Amsterdam 

Preparations

7/Dec/14 

Glasgow, miles 0

I  am 34 year old, and took me some time to pass my motorbike licence - 15 years since first started. Now I am getting ready to start my biggest adventure I was dreaming for long time. 

Time was necessary to complete whole list - when, how and where I'm going to. This moment is nervous and looking like most of ticks been mark. Time and money plays big role in my preparation but there is much more behind it. First, was an inspiration which came after reading book Mondo Enduro by Austin Vince which I got from my good Scottish friend Scott. Secondly I need motorbike - my choice was Yamaha XT 600E, the lightest six hundred I could find. Low mileage cause she was only 5200 miles old. From that moment I had transportation (not for long time - my lady was stolen and recovered - thanks for Glasgow Police). Than was time of preparation for her, I have striped electrics and paint her nicely. Motorbike has set of critical spares as well small set of tools, both together in separate tool box-very heavy. She got big Acerbic tank - 23 litres and big luggage too.

Paul's handcrafted panniers

Total luggage space is 258.75 litres. This is two huge aluminium panniers made by Paul, are my main storage. I have to weld some support for them too. They are nicely painted by Andrew - zebra patterns are symmetrical in both sides. I also have kind of cover with bag between two luggage made for size from Krawiectwo Ewa tailor from my home town Olsztyn. Apart that I'm taking small - junior size guitar and some basic photo and video equipment. Clothes and kitchen is smallest part of my packing. There is some ordinary camping gadgets as well. Around 70 kg of weight in total. 

Ride on - Glasgow - thank you for your support

Zebra is almost ready 

Andrew -  he made zebra patern 

My garage - tent - on the back garden

Today was first day of sleet (snow) in Glasgow but I hoping to get to Newcastle ferry before real cold will come. Than supposedly Amsterdam and travel down to south of France. I still need fix my travel computer and visit Ride On - motorcycle garage to get my clutch replaced. There is big number of small things to get before travel but main are International Driving Permit, and some money solution - travelling checks etc. I will tell you more of  preparations next time. So see you!